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Captain Jorgan had to look high to look at it, for the village was
built sheer up the face of a steep and lofty cliff. There was no
road in it, there was no wheeled vehicle in it, there was not a
level yard in it. From the sea-beach to the cliff-top two irregular
rows of white houses, placed opposite to one another, and twisting
here and there, and there and here, rose, like the sides of a long
succession of stages of crooked ladders, and you climbed up the
village or climbed down the village by the staves between, some six
feet wide or so, and made of sharp irregular stones. The old pack-saddle,
long laid aside in most parts of England as one of the
appendages of its infancy, flourished here intact. Strings of pack-horses
and pack-donkeys toiled slowly up the staves of the ladders,
bearing fish, and coal, and such other cargo as was unshipping at
the pier from the dancing fleet of village boats, and from two or
three little coasting traders. As the beasts of burden ascended
laden, or descended light, they got so lost at intervals in the
floating clouds of village smoke, that they seemed to dive down some
of the village chimneys, and come to the surface again far off, high
above others. No two houses in the village were alike, in chimney,
size, shape, door, window, gable, roof-tree, anything. The sides of
the ladders were musical with water, running clear and bright. The
staves were musical with the clattering feet of the pack-horses and
pack-donkeys, and the voices of the fishermen urging them up,
mingled with the voices of the fishermen's wives and their many
children. The pier was musical with the wash of the sea, the
creaking of capstans and windlasses, and the airy fluttering of
little vanes and sails. The rough, sea-bleached boulders of which
the pier was made, and the whiter boulders of the shore, were brown
with drying nets. The red-brown cliffs, richly wooded to their
extremest verge, had their softened and beautiful forms reflected in
the bluest water, under the clear North Devonshire sky of a November
day without a cloud. The village itself was so steeped in autumnal
foliage, from the houses lying on the pier to the topmost round of
the topmost ladder, that one might have fancied it was out a bird's-nesting,
and was (as indeed it was) a wonderful climber. And
mentioning birds, the place was not without some music from them
too; for the rook was very busy on the higher levels, and the gull
with his flapping wings was fishing in the bay, and the lusty little
robin was hopping among the great stone blocks and iron rings of the
breakwater, fearless in the faith of his ancestors, and the Children
in the Wood.
Thus it came to pass that Captain Jorgan, sitting balancing himself
on the pier-wall, struck his leg with his open hand, as some men do
when they are pleased--and as he always did when he was pleased--and
said, -
"A mighty sing'lar and pretty place it is, as ever I saw in all the
days of my life!"
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