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That was a good Inn down in Wiltshire where I put up once, in the
days of the hard Wiltshire ale, and before all beer was bitterness.
It was on the skirts of Salisbury Plain, and the midnight wind that
rattled my lattice window came moaning at me from Stonehenge. There
was a hanger-on at that establishment (a supernaturally preserved
Druid I believe him to have been, and to be still), with long white
hair, and a flinty blue eye always looking afar off; who claimed to
have been a shepherd, and who seemed to be ever watching for the
reappearance, on the verge of the horizon, of some ghostly flock of
sheep that had been mutton for many ages. He was a man with a weird
belief in him that no one could count the stones of Stonehenge
twice, and make the same number of them; likewise, that any one who
counted them three times nine times, and then stood in the centre
and said, "I dare!" would behold a tremendous apparition, and be
stricken dead. He pretended to have seen a bustard (I suspect him
to have been familiar with the dodo), in manner following: He was
out upon the plain at the close of a late autumn day, when he dimly
discerned, going on before him at a curious fitfully bounding pace,
what he at first supposed to be a gig-umbrella that had been blown
from some conveyance, but what he presently believed to be a lean
dwarf man upon a little pony. Having followed this object for some
distance without gaining on it, and having called to it many times
without receiving any answer, he pursued it for miles and miles,
when, at length coming up with it, he discovered it to be the last
bustard in Great Britain, degenerated into a wingless state, and
running along the ground. Resolved to capture him or perish in the
attempt, he closed with the bustard; but the bustard, who had formed
a counter-resolution that he should do neither, threw him, stunned
him, and was last seen making off due west. This weird main, at
that stage of metempsychosis, may have been a sleep-walker or an
enthusiast or a robber; but I awoke one night to find him in the
dark at my bedside, repeating the Athanasian Creed in a terrific
voice. I paid my bill next day, and retired from the county with
all possible precipitation.
That was not a commonplace story which worked itself out at a little
Inn in Switzerland, while I was staying there. It was a very homely
place, in a village of one narrow zigzag street, among mountains,
and you went in at the main door through the cow-house, and among
the mules and the dogs and the fowls, before ascending a great bare
staircase to the rooms; which were all of unpainted wood, without
plastering or papering,--like rough packing-cases. Outside there
was nothing but the straggling street, a little toy church with a
copper-coloured steeple, a pine forest, a torrent, mists, and
mountain-sides. A young man belonging to this Inn had disappeared
eight weeks before (it was winter-time), and was supposed to have
had some undiscovered love affair, and to have gone for a soldier.
He had got up in the night, and dropped into the village street from
the loft in which he slept with another man; and he had done it so
quietly, that his companion and fellow-labourer had heard no
movement when he was awakened in the morning, and they said, "Louis,
where is Henri?" They looked for him high and low, in vain, and
gave him up. Now, outside this Inn, there stood, as there stood
outside every dwelling in the village, a stack of firewood; but the
stack belonging to the Inn was higher than any of the rest, because
the Inn was the richest house, and burnt the most fuel. It began to
be noticed, while they were looking high and low, that a Bantam
cock, part of the live stock of the Inn, put himself wonderfully out
of his way to get to the top of this wood-stack; and that he would
stay there for hours and hours, crowing, until he appeared in danger
of splitting himself. Five weeks went on,--six weeks,--and still
this terrible Bantam, neglecting his domestic affairs, was always on
the top of the wood-stack, crowing the very eyes out of his head.
By this time it was perceived that Louis had become inspired with a
violent animosity towards the terrible Bantam, and one morning he
was seen by a woman, who sat nursing her goitre at a little window
in a gleam of sun, to catch up a rough billet of wood, with a great
oath, hurl it at the terrible Bantam crowing on the wood-stack, and
bring him down dead. Hereupon the woman, with a sudden light in her
mind, stole round to the back of the wood-stack, and, being a good
climber, as all those women are, climbed up, and soon was seen upon
the summit, screaming, looking down the hollow within, and crying,
"Seize Louis, the murderer! Ring the church bell! Here is the
body!" I saw the murderer that day, and I saw him as I sat by my
fire at the Holly-Tree Inn, and I see him now, lying shackled with
cords on the stable litter, among the mild eyes and the smoking
breath of the cows, waiting to be taken away by the police, and
stared at by the fearful village. A heavy animal,--the dullest
animal in the stables,--with a stupid head, and a lumpish face
devoid of any trace of insensibility, who had been, within the
knowledge of the murdered youth, an embezzler of certain small
moneys belonging to his master, and who had taken this hopeful mode
of putting a possible accuser out of his way. All of which he
confessed next day, like a sulky wretch who couldn't be troubled any
more, now that they had got hold of him, and meant to make an end of
him. I saw him once again, on the day of my departure from the Inn.
In that Canton the headsman still does his office with a sword; and
I came upon this murderer sitting bound, to a chair, with his eyes
bandaged, on a scaffold in a little market-place. In that instant,
a great sword (loaded with quicksilver in the thick part of the
blade) swept round him like a gust of wind or fire, and there was no
such creature in the world. My wonder was, not that he was so
suddenly dispatched, but that any head was left unreaped, within a
radius of fifty yards of that tremendous sickle.
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