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Our arrival in Prague happened at night, and I was glad of this,
for it seemed like a deferring of a terribly decisive moment, to be
in the city for hours without seeing it. As we were not to remain
long in Prague, but to go on speedily to Dresden, it was proposed
that we should drive out the next morning and take a general view
of the place, as well as visit some of its specially interesting
spots, before the heat became oppressive--for we were in August,
and the season was hot and dry. But it happened that the ladies
were rather late at their morning toilet, and to my father's
politely-repressed but perceptible annoyance, we were not in the
carriage till the morning was far advanced. I thought with a sense
of relief, as we entered the Jews' quarter, where we were to visit
the old synagogue, that we should be kept in this flat, shut-up
part of the city, until we should all be too tired and too warm to
go farther, and so we should return without seeing more than the
streets through which we had already passed. That would give me
another day's suspense--suspense, the only form in which a fearful
spirit knows the solace of hope. But, as I stood under the
blackened, groined arches of that old synagogue, made dimly visible
by the seven thin candles in the sacred lamp, while our Jewish
cicerone reached down the Book of the Law, and read to us in its
ancient tongue--I felt a shuddering impression that this strange
building, with its shrunken lights, this surviving withered remnant
of medieval Judaism, was of a piece with my vision. Those darkened
dusty Christian saints, with their loftier arches and their larger
candles, needed the consolatory scorn with which they might point
to a more shrivelled death-in-life than their own.
As I expected, when we left the Jews' quarter the elders of our
party wished to return to the hotel. But now, instead of rejoicing
in this, as I had done beforehand, I felt a sudden overpowering
impulse to go on at once to the bridge, and put an end to the
suspense I had been wishing to protract. I declared, with unusual
decision, that I would get out of the carriage and walk on alone;
they might return without me. My father, thinking this merely a
sample of my usual "poetic nonsense," objected that I should only
do myself harm by walking in the heat; but when I persisted, he
said angrily that I might follow my own absurd devices, but that
Schmidt (our courier) must go with me. I assented to this, and set
off with Schmidt towards the bridge. I had no sooner passed from
under the archway of the grand old gate leading an to the bridge,
than a trembling seized me, and I turned cold under the mid-day
sun; yet I went on; I was in search of something--a small detail
which I remembered with special intensity as part of my vision.
There it was--the patch of rainbow light on the pavement
transmitted through a lamp in the shape of a star.
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